Despite only being its second season, Malone Souliers’ menswear silhouettes have already established themselves as archetypal for the brand. Men’s shoe design offers Founder and Creative Director Mary Alice Malone the chance to hone - in a more literal manner than with women’s collections - the cobbling skills she developed at London’s famed Cordwainers school. Entitled ‘The Laboratory of Ideas’, the new collection was an opportunity for experimentation for the founder. A chance to incorporate her study of Eastern Alchemy and the transmutation of the individual - spiritually, physically and ideologically - to build new ideas about comfort, wearability and aesthetics.
The collection’s colour palette is chosen with integrity; delectable splashes of gold, cognac, military green and sand against easy navy and black finishes. Playing to Malone Souliers’ modus operandi of elegant minimalism, new silhouettes include the Julian loafer, Alberto, a tasselled loafer, and the Bruno slipper. Julian demonstrates Mary Alice’s favourite Nappa leather monk strap fastening across a loafer silhouette, whilst Alberto offers a reimagining of the everyday loafer, moved beyond classicism with rich suede uppers and contrasting Nappa tassels. Bruno, a casual, forward-thinking slipper style, provides a highly flexible wear with its innovative collapsible back and supple, calf leather upper.
Miles, first seen in the debut collection, is a woven loafer with an upper of interlaced denim pieces. In saturated black or the faded indigo of well-worn selvedge jeans, this highly tactile shoe demands up-close admiration. Miles’ double strap is the anchoring, finishing touch to its meticulously realised, textured fabric finishes. Gabriel is a leather slide ideal for the minimal perfectionist - Malone Souliers’ smooth calf leather naturally lends itself to its criss-cross sandal construction.
Malone Souliers’ flare for rendering the theatrical wearable is realised with Dorian, a slip-on as aesthetically pleasing as its legendary namesake. Botanical embroidery adorns Dorian’s soft velvet upper, shimmering gold foliage so intricately executed that it renders the shoe almost regal.
The understated star of the collection is undoubtedly Malone Souliers’ debut men’s boot, George. Bringing balance and luxury to outfits both everyday and exquisite, George offers a tailored riff on the lace-up military boot, crafted from the brand’s supple calf in hand-painted cognac, matte black or a highly polished black patent. With Mary Alice’s favoured monk strap at the ankle, George is set to be an enduring silhouette; a force to be reckoned with and here to stay.
